Tuesday, September 17, 2013

Cronuts at Dominique Ansel Bakery

The "cronut," which was released four months ago, is supposed to be a combination of a croissant and a doughnut, and it has taken America by storm. On the Dominique Ansel Bakery website, it says if you start waiting 2.5 hours before the bakery opens, you will have a "good chance" of getting a cronut. Meaning, even if you start waiting at 5:30am, you still may not get one.

I decided to get up bright and early to get in line before 5:30 (or actually, dark and early); I woke up at 4:30, leaving half an hour to wake up and half an hour to get there. I didn't even put on my eyebrows--it would just slow me down. I got there at 5:21 and there were already six people in front of me. The hardest part is waiting; bring an iPad to watch a movie or a fully charged phone, and maybe also a lawn chair if you don't like sitting on the sidewalk or squatting. Around 7:45, a guy will come out with baskets of madeleines and pass them out to everyone who has been waiting in line. Thanks, but when I've been up since 4:30, I need something more substantial than an extremely dry madeleine.


For some reason, I thought the cronut was going to look a lot more refined than this. Dominique Ansel is hailed as a star patissier, and all of his other cakes and pastries are beautiful. But this just looks like a $1 doughnut from a street cart with a fig on top (September's flavor is fig mascarpone). I must admit, I was very skeptical of how good the cronut is, but the texture is really interesting; it's less fluffy, and a little chewier than the interior of regular doughnuts. However, the big mistake that they made was to serve it at room temperature--a fried doughnut that isn't warm tastes a little greasy (but still okay), but then when you fill it with marscapone and cooked figs, the flavor just becomes kind of muddy. Although I like figs, and I like marscapone, I would've preferred a plain cronut because the execution is a little disappointing.



If I'm going to wait for 2.5 hours outside a bakery, I'm not going to walk away with a just croissant shaped like a doughnut. I've been told that the canele and eclairs are good, so I got one of each (I got the salted caramel eclair--they have chocolate as well). The canele is good, but I don't feel like it's a vast improvement from any other good caneles, like the ones at Lafayette--I wouldn't make a special trip here if you have a more convenient location to go to. The eclair's salted caramel flavor was spot-on, but the pastry shell just did not taste fresh--it had this kind of "refrigerated" flavor, kind of like when you leave cake uncovered in the fridge for a while, and then it tastes stale and the texture becomes kind of dry and crumbly.

Overall, I give Dominique Ansel Bakery an average rating. If I'm going to wake up at 4:30am for anything, it better be something that is life-changing and ruins all other food for me. However, cronuts just didn't do it for me. The texture is interesting, but it's not something that I'm going to dream about for the three hours of sleep I get before lining up to get another one. And the other pastries were just kind of eh. Although it was a cool experience, I wouldn't do it ever again.

Dominique Ansel Bakery
189 Spring St.
http://dominiqueansel.com/
For more information on the cronut: http://dominiqueansel.com/cronut-101/

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